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Cincinnati catfishing Bait


Cincinnati catfishing Bait

 by: Norb Wormald

Some of the baits I have used for used for CATFISHing here on the Ohio River are, chicken liver, minnows, shrimp, Spam, French Fries and more.

Fresh chicken liver works better than frozen liver that has thawed out. It does get bites however, cats peck at it so by the time you pick up the rod they have cleaned the bait off the hook. My experience is the fish swallows the bait more often than getting hooked. The biggest drawback is keeping the bait on the hook when casting from the bank. Trying to get a long cast with chicken liver is very difficult. It seems like half the time the liver will just fly off the hook with any forceful cast. This is no problem if you are fishing from a boat, just flip it out and feed it line so the current can take it away from the boat for you.

Spam does get bites but is even harder to cast from the bank. three out of four cast can see the bait go flying in the air before the line hits the water.

Shrimp works well for it does have a scent to it and stays on the hook when casting from the bank. You normally have to get the shrimp when it is on sale and freeze it. Then get it out the night before you fish to let it thaw out.

Minnows are good for there are so many fish that will feed on them beside catfish. So even if the cats are not biting you could get a perch, largemouth bass, stripper or a white bass.

Yes! I did say French Fries as bait! I have caught channel cats up river and right in the downtown Cincinnati area on FRENCH FRIES. I did read posting from a guy that caught a large Flathead on fries by one of the restaurants on the river in Newport Ky. Any fast food place that sells fries works. If possible pick some up when heading to your spot so they are on the warm side. That allows the grease to get into the water to make a scent trail easier.

I had great success in February 2004 using chunks of steak for bait. I caught 8 bluecats with it, largest being 13 pounds. It did not matter if it was raw or grilled with seasoning. So if you have some scrapes left over from a cookout just put it in a small freezer bag. If you have a friend that works in a restaurant that has steak, ask them to make up doggie bag of scraps for you. It stays on the hook very well when casting and the fish have a hard time just pecking it off the hook. All of those eight fish were hooked, none swallowed it. So I was able to released them to grow bigger for the next season.

This past summer I was able to use a casting net to get some gizzard and thinfin shad for bait. These fish die very quickly. So I just cut them up for bait. Skipjack is a great bait if you can get them. Around Cincinnati they can be caught on a rod and reel in the Fall. Other than that the only place I know for skipjack year round is the power plant at Aberdeen Ohio. I have some frozen cut skipjack from last Fall to start off this season.

July 19 2003 I caught two Channel Cats around 2 1/2 lbs. using the skin from fried chicken. It says on the hook for casting O.K. Had 3 other bites but they stripped off the bait. I'm not sure if large cats bite on it. Just started using it today. So when your family is done eating their chicken dinner put the scraps of skin in a small zip lock bag in the freezer till you go fishing.

ALso learnd in July 2003 from another Catfisherman about Chicken nuggets for bait. He had been telling me about it a couple time this summer. The other week I saw him actually catch a 5 lb. channel cat out of the river using chicken nuggets. He turn to me and said that was the smallest one of the day. He had landed 5 other cats earlier that morning and released them. HE had stopped at McDonalds and picked up a 6 nugget serving that morning. He said he has used other companies nuggets in the past.

I hope you get a chance to try out some of these baits this season. Tight lines and plenty of action to all!

Norb Wormald

Please visit my web sites: nlcatfish@aol webmaster for CINCINNATI CATFISHING cincinnaticatfishing & SHOP WITHOUT DROPPING cincinnaticatfishing/Shop1.html

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You have permission to publish this article in it's entirety either, electronically or in print, free of charge, as long as the bylines are included. A courtesy copy of your publication would be greatly appreciated! Thank You.

About The Author I have fished for Catfish on the Ohio aound the Downtown area of Cincinnati for 40 years. I also enjoy trying my hand at golf. Since retiring have made up 2 main web sites. nlcatfish@aol

Top Fishing Dough Baits Made From Predigested Protein Ingredients

Predigested ingredients in pastes are awesome!

When used as major ingredients in your homemade baits and free offerings, or even as a ?paste wrap? around your hook and bait, they give off incredibly attractive leak-off signals; catching very impressive numbers of big catfish and carp among many other species.

Here is an example of a predigested ingredients paste recipe I?ve caught very well on:

* 4 Ounces of predigested liver extract.

* 4 Ounces of predigested fish protein.

* 4 Ounces of fish meal.

* 4 Ounces of sodium caseinate. (You could add semolina if more binding effect is required.)

* 15 Milliliters of pure salmon oil.

* 4 Eggs.

Mix up the dough until it is a firm but pliable consistency, split up your dough for various uses. Use some as hook baits boilies or pastes; try rolling many pieces baits into 10 millimeter sized baits and ?air dry? them until they are firm.

Try regularly feeding your swim with these paste offerings, while fishing; they can often work wonders for great results!

You could keep some for use as paste hook baits, some for hook bait paste ?wraps,? and some for free offering bait balls. Paste baits are very productive fed into the swim near your hook baits, inside water soluble poly vinyl alcohol (?PVA?) bags attached to your hook rig, or on ?stringers? made from the same soluble substance.

(You can freeze any bait you don?t use short-term.)

On a very angling pressured fishery, I?ve had three 40 pound carp in 3 days using baits made on this principle. I?ve had fish feeding on them as I catapulted them in at 1, 2 or 3 or 5 baits at a time. (So as to not spook the fish!) I fed baits in every 10 to 20 minutes.

There was never any splashing of the surface as bait was thrown in and no ?bed? of baits on the bottom that might spook the fish. These paste baits were very quickly dissolved, but the smell of bait was constantly in the water, drawing in competing big fish.

Some commercial bait companies also sell baits that dissolve like this. You can soak them in your own attractors thus attracting instant attention to your hook baits. You can alter the time of ?free bait? total breakdown, for example, from 1 to 3 hours.

The aim is to achieve a smell and ?sedimentation? of bait in the water, but offer no ?free baits? to eat except your hook baits. This really forces the fish to eat your stimulated fish into eating your hook baits; it is an extremely effective technique!

You can mix and match using attractor-soaked fish meal pellets with hemp pellets, for example. Or make ?ground bait? pastes using your boilie base mix or in conjunction with various prepared bird foods and proprietary bread crumb based ?ground baits,? with your added attractors.

The other advantage of these methods, are that the fish get used to the specific flavours, smells and tastes of your bait mix and your attractors in the water. And on a very pressured water, no-one can take advantage of your bait after you leave, as someone could do, had you baited up with whole boilies!

Someone could, in effect, be ?blowing? your bait much faster than you realized, if you use conventional whole boilies, by catching fish attracted to your bait, and ?sabotaging? all your hard work by regularly baiting up your swim! (Even if only ?inadvertently.?)

There are many other ?edges? you can use in baits to achieve a competitive edge, and
catch many more fish; it really pays to discover as many as possible!

By Tim Richardson. ?The thinking angler?s fishing author? and bait guru.

FOR MORE SEE: baitbigfish

Tim Richardson is a leading big catfish and carp angler and recognised carp bait guru in the UK. His best selling bait making books are used by members of the elite ?British Carp Study Group? for expert reference. This comprehensive information and research can help beginners and experienced anglers alike. Contact: info@baitbigfish

Fly Fishing Techniques for Steelhead


There are a few basic steelheading techniques that every steelhead fly fishing angler knows, or should know. Which one you use will depend on several things including water lever, clarity, temperature and speed. Also one must take into account outside temperatures, time of year, and time of day. And finally which fly you are using, which also depends on all of the previously mentioned things and more. But we are here to simplify, to present a few basic techniques to give the fly angler a foundation on which to experiment.

The most popular steelhead fly rodding technique is the wet fly swing. This is used traditionally when steelhead are in fairly shallow water (less than seven feet) and water moving at about walking speed. To begin the technique, you cast upstream from where you are standing, you should be also be standing upstream from the designated target. Once you cast you need to mend your line immediately. And then do nothing else. The mending allows the fly to sink without hindrance. The fly then swings down in front of the desired target. When the swing is done allow the fly to dangle for a few seconds. And be alert, often this is when the strike occurs. Generally I give the same spot a few casts and then move a little and try it again.

Another technique is the dead drift. During this technique it is crucial that the fly drift without tension, and be allowed to drift freely. A strike indicator is mandatory, and a strike indicator that allows you to see whether or not your fly is floating without being impeded is the best. Some fly fisherman use macram yarn, others use a corkie and a toothpick, both indicate whether the fly is floating as it should. Traditional indicators also work. The idea is to keep the fly directly below the indicator, than free floating has been achieved. Dead drifting is used primarily in pools or slower riffles. Dead drifting does not cover as much water as the wet swing, but when fishing in smaller streams, or a narrow concentration of where steelhead are lying it is a very precise and effective method. The indicator can be adjusted to vary the depth at which your fly is presented.

One last popular method is bottom bouncing. Bottom bouncing works well in faster water, when steelhead are lying on the bottom. It is, as the name describes, bouncing your presentation along the bottom. Cast your fly upstream and allow it to sink to the bottom. Generally a couple of split shots BB sized placed twelve to eighteen inches above the fly, will get the fly down. But sometimes more weight is needed. Once the bottom is hit, lift the fly line out of the water by lifting your rod tip up, keep excess line in your free hand. As the fly moves downstream away from you gradually lower the line and let more fly line out.

All the above methods work with nymphs, streamers or egg patterns. More on fly selection will be presented in upcoming articles.

The most popular steelhead fly rodding technique is the wet fly swing. This is used traditionally when steelhead are in fairly shallow water (less than seven feet) and water moving at about walking speed. To begin the technique, you cast upstream from where you are standing, you should be also be standing upstream from the designated target. Once you cast you need to mend your line immediately. And then do nothing else. The mending allows the fly to sink without hindrance. The fly then swings down in front of the desired target. When the swing is done allow the fly to dangle for a few seconds. And be alert, often this is when the strike occurs. Generally I give the same spot a few casts and then move a little and try it again.

Another technique is the dead drift. During this technique it is crucial that the fly drift without tension, and be allowed to drift freely. A strike indicator is mandatory, and a strike indicator that allows you to see whether or not your fly is floating without being impeded is the best. Some fly fisherman use macram yarn, others use a corkie and a toothpick, both indicate whether the fly is floating as it should. Traditional indicators also work. The idea is to keep the fly directly below the indicator, than free floating has been achieved. Dead drifting is used primarily in pools or slower riffles. Dead drifting does not cover as much water as the wet swing, but when fishing in smaller streams, or a narrow concentration of where steelhead are lying it is a very precise and effective method. The indicator can be adjusted to vary the depth at which your fly is presented.

One last popular method is bottom bouncing. Bottom bouncing works well in faster water, when steelhead are lying on the bottom. It is, as the name describes, bouncing your presentation along the bottom. Cast your fly upstream and allow it to sink to the bottom. Generally a couple of split shots BB sized placed twelve to eighteen inches above the fly, will get the fly down. But sometimes more weight is needed. Once the bottom is hit, lift the fly line out of the water by lifting your rod tip up, keep excess line in your free hand. As the fly moves downstream away from you gradually lower the line and let more fly line out.

All the above methods work with nymphs, streamers or egg patterns. More on fly selection will be presented in upcoming articles.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Cameron Larsen runs the online fly shop
bigyflyco